My Interview with Costume Designer Greg LaVoi of The Closer

As a style guru and costume designer with two Emmy nominations under his fashionable belt, Greg LaVoi is the man who dresses the feminine (but tough) Brenda Leigh Johnson (Kyra Sedgwick) on TNT’s primetime drama The Closer. I very much admire the way he reuses different clothing and accessory items from season to season, but nothing ever looks stale. He may not be a magician, but there is definitely a bit of magic woven throughout his work. Read on for my interview with Greg LaVoi!

Fans of The Closer know that Brenda’s favorite color is definitely pink. What are your personal favorite colors to wear, work with, and be surrounded by?

Greg LaVoi (GL): I was taught by a producer, and of course by the example of costume designer Edith Head, that the designer should not out-peacock the star, thus my work wardrobe is black shirts, pants or suits in the fall and winter, and crisp white shirts and khakis in the summer. I love to work with pastels on a film set. Usually the sets try and be the star of the show, but in addition to large walls and furniture, you have actors that must be dressed. Pastels work well on lots of skin types, for both men and women. I try and avoid black on camera as it just soaks up the light. I surround myself with neutral walls and floors to then explode color on the walls and furnishings…or keep it all monochromatic, whatever my mood might be. Nothing sets off art or objects like white or cream walls.

From The Closer episode Problem Child

Through your Fashion File blog I know you have several favorite pieces (like the ‘not a trench coat, trench coat’) that you’ve dressed Kyra Sedgwick in for The Closer. Are there ever times when you can’t decide between a couple different outfits for one particular scene on the show? What helps you decide which outfit components will go back to the rack and which will be worn on screen? (Can this advice translate to real world style-editing for those of us who stand far too long in front of a mirror with three different blouse options? And yes, I’m sadly guilty of this!)

GL: When choosing costumes for Brenda or other actors the script totally dictates what I pick. I start with the script, make costume sketches in the margins and then go to Brenda’s closet and already have a notion of what I want the mood of her clothes to portray and to move the story along. Often, if I have a couple of great choices for her and have to narrow it down the script and story helps me make my final decision. Translating this practice to real life, my actors have the luxury of me choosing their looks from head to toe, but for the real gal or guy out there, get dressed putting on everything you think you need for that outfit. Then look in a full length mirror, squint and then remove one item or accessory to lighten the image and walk out the door confident!

You use lots of wonderful vintage pieces on the show. Have you grown up being a fan of vintage clothing, or did you evolve into that love?

GL: Growing up in the 1960’s my dad owned a mens and boys clothing store, and my mom was a real fashion plate so I loved watching the two of them dress and wear great clothes. There was a civility to that era that got lost in the 1970’s when people relaxed and lost their manners and breeding. By using vintage on the screen and in my daily life I help show girls today that you can still dress like a lady and function in a man’s world. I hope I am educating the masses that good construction and design never goes out of style, and vintage is the best place to learn how really fine clothes were meant to be made and worn.

Have you always wanted to work with fashion? Who are some of your style icons and inspirations?

GL: I acted as a child and wanted to pursue acting as a career, that is perhaps why all the actors I work with really understand that I “get” character, and appreciate where I take them via their costumes. However, when I took one look at those Bob Mackie costumes on Sonny and Cher, I knew that I wanted to devote my life to costume design. I always sketched fashion, even as a child - partly due to the great fashion sketches that I saw in my dad’s stores advertising, and also seeing what my mom would bring home from her shopping sprees in the city. My style icons would be: Barbie - of course, Jackie Kennedy, Doris Day, Princess Diana, Gene Kelly, Sean Connery as James Bond and Brad Pitt.

We won’t ask you to name names, but do you ever see people in young Hollywood that you wish you could pull aside and style differently (or at least yank their dress down about five inches)? Can you name some of the people you think are getting it right on a consistent basis?

GL: Lindsey Lohan gets my pick for one of the young Hollywood types that gets it wrong a lot of the time. When she’s styled for an event or fashion shoot she looks great, but out and about in Hollywood and caught by the paparazzi she just looks unkempt and messy. Britney was on my get it wrong list last year but she’s cleaned up her act and looks fresh and fashionable - most of the time. I think Christina Aguilera gets it right a lot of the time, always pulled together and looking like a star as she is. I love it when someone in the public eye cares how they look when they go out their front door. Get rid of the sweat suits and grunge looks now, please!

From The Closer episode Controlled Burn

Do you watch Project Runway? If so, as a veteran of the fashion industry, what do you think of it?

GL: Love Project Runway, except this season. I thought the designers were second rate and not at all talented. The Bryant Park show was better than the whole season, and Leanne’s work was beautiful, but overall the past seasons have showcased more talent than this year. Jay, Santino, Daniel, Jeffery, Christian, and even Wendy Pepper for the sheer evil, were all fun to watch and gave us unexpected design. If you look carefully at Michael Kors last season and this season’s collections I think he must be a fan of The Closer and Brenda Leigh Johnson as several of his silhouettes and designs are almost direct copies of styles I have put her in - with a vintage vibe of course!

(Editors note: I agree about the show significantly lacking lately! I did love Leanne’s work, though. She was the clear winner, almost from the start.)

Even people who love their jobs can feel burnt out from their passion. Is every day a good shopping day, or are there ever days when you don’t want to shop at all, and the very idea of going through a clothing catalog makes your head hurt?

GL: Every day is a good shopping day. I love my job and 99% of that is due to Miss Kyra Sedgwick, the other 1% is the support I get from my producers and directors. They allow me to really be creative and do my job. The only time shopping, cataloging or eBaying makes my head hurt is when an item I covet is too expensive for our shows budget, on backorder, or I’m outbid!!!

From The Closer episode Time Bomb

My first word was ‘doll’ so you’d better believe I love your Barbie Loves L.A. book (Barbie Loves L.A.: America’s Favorite Doll Sees the Sites). Can you tell us a bit about what we can expect from your upcoming book, Barbie Loves Rt. 66?

GL: Since Barbie Loves L.A. was so well received and is now being launched this Christmas in Paperback, when time permits I have been shooting Barbie Loves Rt. 66. I have already shot in California and Arizona, and parts of New Mexico, but I plan to rent a Barbie Bus and travel the entire Rt. 66 in a two week period form LA to Chicago and back. I had hoped to have it ready by now, but thank god I’m busy on The Closer and am only able to shoot during our hiatus.

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Are you guys amped to go find some vintage fashion now? I am - possibly something with tiny black and white polka dots.  One of my favorite things to do is to use a glamorous vintage broach (I have some lovely ones thanks to my Grandmother) and affix it to a simple cardigan (which can be from anywhere, even The Gap).

Make sure to check out Brenda’s Corner: Fashion File with Greg LaVoi on TNT.com. The pictures are from TNT.com. Many thanks go to Greg LaVoi for letting me pick at his brilliant brain!

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